Tuesday, June 25, 2013

Balkans Tour: Bulgaria

On the road again.....

Leaving Sofia today with a tour group, so I need to catch up on the last week. Lex and I spent several days here by ourselves. Very relaxing. Then Jill and Jeff joined us and we moved into a larger apartment. Very spacious and still within walking distance of everything. Spent a few days, together with Lou and Mike as well before joining the tour group. Six old farts back together again. Always great fun.

So we explored Sofia again, with friends. Free Sofia Tour is worth a second tour. Those young people are so much fun, energetic, helpful as well kowledgeable and passionate about their city. Don't miss this if you come to Sofia.

In all we spent 10 days in Sofia, and many people were surprised by that. It's not such a big place, with not so much to do or places to go. But we certainly weren't bored, and we didn't visit all the places on our list. It was very relaxing- enough places to go within easy walking distance, and lots of great eating experiences. For most of the time, we were in apartments- plenty of space and no time constraints. And the weather got warmer. So perfect for us, and just what we needed.

New Sofia Pub Crawl ( for those waiting to hear about this). We didn't end up doing it a second time, but we did go back to the Ale House twice for lunch. Super.

Pub Crawl cost is 20 leva, with some drinks included along the way. It starts at 9pm, in the park, because drinking in parks is customary in Sofia, not exactly legal, but tolerated. And it is amazing to see. Small bars, or bottle shops near parks do a roaring trade. Bottles are huge. People drink all hours of the day and night, and I'm guessing many of these places are open 24/7. Small bins overflow, but there's really not a big litter problem. And we didn't see any loud, raucous or aggressive behaviour. That was impressive.

So we all got a beer, and stood in the park drinking and chatting.

Next stop was The Apartment. Fascinating. It is a first floor apartment, with only a small door on the street. Not even sure if we had to ring a buzzer and be let in, but we all filed up the stairs, and were given a guided tour of several of the rooms (all decorated differently, but with seats/ lounge chairs everywhere). One particular room, originally painted with blackboard paint is completely covered with drawings, artwork and words, we were invited to contribute to the artwork. The kitchen, obviously is where you find the food and drink - and everything is made there. Included item there was a chocolate ball. But we also had blackberry wine. Very sweet, but a really interesting concept.

Then off to the Ale House - a metered beer tap above each table. By this time it was getting close to closing time ( midnight), so there was only time for one or two drinks. We had to return next day because I left my jumper behind. Good trick eh.

Not sure what the next place was called. It was like stepping back in time. The unlit ( no electricity, candles only ) bar was down a rough narrow pathway between tallish buildings. We were met on the street, asked to be very quiet to avoid complaints from neighbours and led into the bar which was apparently used for secret meetings during times of war. It certainly had that feel. Included drink here was a shot, of something, most likely the local grappa called 'rakia'.

Exit quietly, then onto the final bar for the night, a night club - crowded bar, with many alcove areas, small high tables and a few stools, LOUD music and people dancing where they were standing/drinking. No dedicated dance floor. The group faded out from this place. We left about 2:30am, and easily found our way home. Lots of people still in the streets, and around other night clubs.

It was a fun night, and included places that could only be found by locals. We returned to the Ale House a couple times, and the food was fantastic - chicken, Camembert and peaches. Yummmm

Another food favourite has been 'beer balls' -deep fried cheese balls, so named because they are good to eat while drinking beer, and breaded Camembert (also deep fried) served with blueberry jam. Also yummy.

We learnt one word of Bulgarian, also thanks to out Pub Crawl.....

Nazdrave ( наздраве ) means Cheers. And to remember it, think, Nice driveway. Too easy.

 

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