Tuesday, August 6, 2013

Turkey Tour - Cappadoccia

Before leaving Ankara we visited the Mausoleum of Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish empire. So much more than I expected. It's a huge complex on a hill in the middle of Ankara, with so many significant elements. It's a stunning, massive place, beautiful, but somber. There's also a museum, and the display about the Gallipoli Battle, which included sound and visual depiction of action in the trenches really got to me. I wasn't expecting any references to Gallipoli until later in the trip.

A lot of dry land today, we could be in Australia.

We visited a salt lake, but so small in comparison to what we saw at Uyuni in Bolivia.

The underground city at Derinkuyu was fascinating. It's the largest of sixty underground cities in the area. Tunnels were narrow and went a long way down - 85m apparently, or 8 levels. It is believed that they were first constructed about 7 century BC, but used as temporary hiding places in by Christian groups at a time when Christianity was illegal.

Arriving at Cappadoccia was another eye-popping experience. Couldn't talke it all in, so photos have to wait until we explore further. We have 3 nights here, and days packed with things to do and places to see. These unique land formations began millions of years ago when nearby volcanoes erupted depositing layers of ash, lava and basalt. Earthquakes and ongoing erosion have created the valleys and formations, often referred to as 'fairy chimneys'.

The rock below the top basalt layer is very soft, and can be easily carved. Over time people have taken advantage of this, making homes, churches and communities underground. The area is World Heritage listed.

Tonight's dinner was another special experience. We were told in Istanbul of a particular Turkish kebab, but best eaten in Cappadoccia. So here we are. Time for a Testi Kebab.

It is a combination of meat and vegetables cooked in a clay pot in their own juices. The pot of clay is sealed with alfoil, and bread after filling it with ingredients and breaking it is the only way it can be opened. Yeah.

They were sooooo good.

Early night, relatively. We have an early morning appointment with a balloon. ;-)

Balloon ride!!

For one who freaks out near the edge of look outs, this was a tremendous special moment. We hadn't previously booked, but had an opportunity, so a quick decision, with a request for a smaller basket, on Jen's advice, and we were in. ( with only one night to ponder/agonise about our rash decision).

Early morning wake up, pick up at 4.45am, light breakfast at balloon tour headquarters while we waited for the decision; fly or not fly, depending on wind/weather. Then we were off.

What a sight, seeing dozens of huge balloons laying on their sides in between these strange hills that make up Cappadoccia region. They looked like huge, sleeping, fire breathing monsters in the semi-light.

As they filled with air, the balloons rose up, and baskets righted themselves. A few more minutes and we were in, and given a few instructions, like the landing brace position. Tight fit as we held on and squatted down keeping heads below the basket line. This was a practice move that we weren't ever called on to use.

We were off the ground before we even realised it. It was so absolutely smooth and peaceful. Our pilot took us up slowly, but we travelled not too far up for a while. What a magical ride as we floated above some of the most amazing landscape!! He magically manouvered the basket so that everyone got views of the places he pointed out along the way, at times taking the balloon up to 800m.

I can't believe how safe I felt leaning on the edge of the basket, LOOKING DOWN! We saw the sun rise above a hilltop, before doing a loop and flying right over our hotel. Some balloons had already landed, and we could see a car, trailer and crew awaiting us.

We flew on a little further, so close to a hillside before rising up. Incredible. The crew followed, and incredibly, with assistance from ground crew the pilot landed the balloon right on its trailer. Brilliant.

Champagne followed, and certificates presented.

Been There, Done That.

Yeah. Who'd have thought!

Day 1 in Cappadocia

Well after that we didn't need any other adventures for the day, but of course that's not the way it goes on tour. We were in and out of the vus several times, visiting great vista spots, attractions, or drop off spots for walking.

First stop was a climb up to Edge Castle on the edge. A climb with fantastic views.

 

Goreme outdoor museum was a spectacular area. We saw a number of ancient cave churches, many with remains of paintings on the walls and ceilings. A lot of the faces, or eyes on paintings had been scratched off or obliterated.

After lunch, it was time for a Carpet demo. It was particularly informative, but also very 'pushy', and although they are very beautiful, and I can appreciate the labour, I will be avoiding carpet shops! We saw women making carpets, a co-operative similar to Peru. So intensive... Wool on wool, wool on cotton, wool on silk and silk on silk, which is obviously the most detailed, and expensive.

We saw silk being wound off silkworm cocoons. Wish I'd known those tips when we were kids!

And before having dozens of carpets unrolled, and spread before us we were offered beverages, everything from Turkish coffee to rakia!! As we were heading towards a thick pile of carpets spread before us, a few smartly dressed men drifted into the room. When the spokesmen finished these men moved in ....... And the pressure was on.

No sales today!

With our own bus we have been picked up, and dropped off all over the valley. We were dropped off near the top of a track which wound down the hillside and along the valley, past amazing formations and small crops. Just before the village we noticed a crowd gathered in the cemetery. It was late afternoon on the last day of Ramadan, and it is customary for Muslims to visit the graves of deceased loved ones. The crowd was predominately male.

Time for one more sight, a climb through the village to another cave church, known as St John's Basillica. We'd seen this area from our balloon ride, you could see right through holes in the rock in this area, and some parts are deemed to be too dangerous.

Later in the evening we returned to this area for a meal with a local family. From the window in the dining room we could see the caves we had walked through earlier. Fabulous view.

Our attempts at Turkish language is very bad. Nothing seems familiar, either in spoken or written form. Consequently I have great difficulty understanding or remembering any words, and particularly names. The lady of the house and her daughter were introduced, and served us several courses, as we sat ( mostly uncomfortably) on cushions. Food was great, and we had a chance to interact and ask questions. Another great night, and a BIG, long day.

One more day in Cappadoccia. Even though we were tired from the previous day, we just had to get up early to see the balloons from the ground. Fantastic sight.

Day 2 in Cappadoccia

Another brilliant day visiting different valleys in the region. Even one day after, everything is in such a blur, something to sort out later, possibly. For now I'll have to be satisfied with wploading a few pictures with some brief notes.

We visited stunning areas

Lex aka Legs, last seen disappearing up this hole!

Went to a pottery workshop/studio. Simply stunning, indivually crafted pieces!

Wine jug. Sling it over your arm and tip to pour. Nice

Visited a town which has distinct Greek and Turkish heritage. This town had predominately Greek population at the time of Turkish independence, and was part of the population exchange shortly after, whereby Turks living in Greece were relocated to turkey, and Greeks living in Turkey were relocated to Greece. History!

Had Turkish pancakes for lunch

And topped the night off with an amazing dinner and show. The most unusual restaurant setup ever, inside one of the caves. Circular, or hexagonal room with centre space for a show, and tables arranged in tierer sections. Thoroughly entertaining and enjoyable night. Music, folk dancing and belly dancing. She was amazing, mesmerising!!! Couldn't take good photos unfortunately. Memories will suffice.

And despite making a decision not to get up early for another balloon fix, we just couldn't help ourselves as they floated so close to our bedroom window. Spectacular sight

 

1 comment:

  1. Beautiful photos! I want some turkish pancakes too!
    x Corrinne

    ReplyDelete