Last day in Istanbul.... and last breakfast

So I just had to have some of the traditional cheese, cucumber, tomato and olives (minus the boiled egg). Gotta love it, eventually. Today there was watermelon, yeah. None yesterday, and I really missed it. Off to France tomorrow, at stupid o'clock, so this is our last Turkish breakfast.

We've been here for 4 days after our tour, so we've been to see a few more of the local attractions, walked around the coastline, and spotted several dolphins, tasted more Turkish delicacies, walked through the streets and markets in the old town area - same, same!

So much ceramic tiles!!

Chaos on the corner. Traffic, trams, pedestrians and people pushing loads of merchandise.

People are the same, in the streets and in the markets: over the top friendly! Just a slight pause in your stride will have someone coming up to you saying, 'where you looking for?' Of course they usually follow it up with, 'I not guide, no problem. I show you. You like to see my carpet shop.' Very hard to say, No.

Of course Lex, wearing his Akubra style (but really Argentinian ) hat, attracts comments like 'Hey cowboy', 'Aussie, Aussie, Aussie ' and 'G,day mate', all of which have the same effect on him *shudder*.

Of course others just start with, 'Where you from'. They usually follow up with a list of places they know, or family members who live somewhere in Aust.

Other times he wears his driving hat (aka flat cap, or Andy Capp hat) just to confuse them. Some try to guess where we are from, speaking in German or French before they need to ask. Luckily the Peruvian beanie was sent home early!

Traders are very persuasive. Very. They try to engage you in conversation but it quickly turns to sales pitch, and an invitation into their store. At one place we visited on tour the phrase was, 'Hello maybe later.' And I really think they believed they were saying, 'Hello, see you later.' or even 'Hello, how are you.'

Still I think Turkish people are genuinely very friendly, and really pleased that you have come to visit their country, which they are very proud of.

On our last day here we opted for a slower pace, and less people, taking a boat trip on the Bosphorous. The trip takes almost 2 hours, arrives at a small fishing village with lots of seafood restaurants, and leaves a couple of hours later. Relaxing

We are still pinching ourselves. Hard to believe we are half way round the world, living out of a backpack, and still loving it. Who'd have thought.

We leave Turkey in the morning, back to Paris. Having already spent a few days in Paris, we have decided to head out of the city to Fontainbleau. Why there? Well my research for great places in France that are not on the top 10 most visited list highlighted the Fontainbleau Forest. So that's it. It's less than an hour from Paris and reachable by train. Da-da. So we have booked one night in Paris and three nights in Fontainbleau. The gap is filling, but we still have 4 days after that to wander..... No plans yet, and that suits us fine.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Turkey Tour - Troy and Gallipoli

What a sombre mood in the bus as we head away from Gallipoli Peninsula. Such a moving experience to be here, to see the site of the first landing at Anzac Cove, the War Memorials for ANZACS as well as Turkish soldiers, and to walk in the trenches.

Australian trenches, only 30m away were the Turk's trenches

It was a little strange, hearing accounts of Gallipoli from a Turkish perspective, but I must add that he painted all soldiers as brave young men. Of course he added a few stories of Turkish soldiers that we'd never heard before. I had always read/heard that there was the utmost respect between Anzacs and Turkish soldiers, and his account confirmed that impression.

Inscribed on this memorial is a tribute to the Anzacs from president of Turkey in 1934. The bond, respect and friendship expressed is certainly felt here in Turkey. Apparently we have an Ataturk Memorial Garden in Canberra, and the same inscription appears on a memorial there.

“Heroes who shed their blood and lost their lives! You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You, the mothers, who sent their sons from far away countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.”

― Mustafa Kemal Atatürk

Anzac Cove

Lone Pine

Interestingly, we had the place almost to ourselves, until we came to the Turkish memorials. There were bus loads of people there, and several food and souvenir stalls. I guess you could expect that.

Turkish Memorial

 

Earlier in the day we visited the ancient city of Troy which is the site of the Trojan Horse story. It's an interesting place, because it has many layers, indicating a number of distinct eras and civilisations, dating back to the earliest, 4500 years ago. Incredible. But the visit was definitely overshadowed by Gallipoli.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Turkey Tour - on to Ayvalik

Tonight we stay in an old Ottoman House

Very relaxing day. We drove from Selcuk to Ayvalik, arriving shortly after lunch. A small town, NOT! There was much traffic on the narrow road, it took ages to get near our hotel. Streets closest to the hotel are even narrower, so we were prepared with day packs only for the overnight stay. But the road near the bus park area were absolutely choked! Nothing was moving. Market day, apparently.

How's this for a load of tomatoes, ready to eat! Not picked green for easy transportation. Tomatoes are the best here in Turkey!

And another tradition we observed. These men were cooking something like small donuts ( best I could understand because we didn't taste them). They are available free to anyone who wants them, just join the queue. It was long. Apparently when a family member dies, they cook these to give away in memory of their deceased. Nice touch.

Beautiful old house, with great terraces, so we spent the afternoon here, relaxing. And nearby mosque(s) so we could hear early call to prayer loud and clear (in stereo)!!!

Out for dinner near the wharf, where we ordered fish, and were treated to the most amazing de-boning of a fish I have ever seen. Spectacular.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Turkey Tour - Ephesus

Morning bus ride through fertile valleys to the town of Selcuk, we we planned a late afternoon visit to the ancient city of Ephesus, to avoid the hottest part of the day. Temperatures the previous afternoon when we were at Hierapolis were around 41 degrees apparently.

Wow, the ruins of Ephesus are mind blowing. You actually get the feeling that you are walking around a city, much more than anywhere else. The main streets still exist. Streets that have been walked on for thousands of years.

And clay pipe plumbing also running underground. Incredible planning and architecture. Latrines with central sprinkler system, possibly to mask other sounds, both bodily functions and discussions as latrines and bath houses were social places.

Isik told us about many of the significant buildings. I don't know how he remembers all the names, dates and stories. I certainly don't. He not only gives us the historical accounts, but the local variations as well. Always interesting.

Within Ephesus there's a covered excavation site. Huge covered area which was apparently terraces houses of wealthy inhabitants. We could see pictures of a large section of the hill, completely covered with soil and vegetation, and what's even unearthed in successive years. Incredible. So many pieces, and so many jig-saw puzzles. There's even a huge domed basilica, but in this case it was used as a welcoming room (entry) for greeting guests. Very elaborate.

A magnificent library! Held around 2500 scrolls and inscriptions, in vaulted sections between the walls

This is the largest theatre we have seen. Capacity for 25000 people. Huge.

Almost sunset

 

What a day. Topped it off with an Efes (local beer) near Ephesus!

And some ice-cream on the way home. As you do. Turkish ice cream has a slightly different texture. More elastic, or gummy. Not my favourite, but another experience all the same.

 

Posted with Blogsy

Turkey Tour - Pamukkale

The drive out of Kas reminded me of the Great Ocean Road, windy and hugging the coastline and the steep hillsides. We stopped for a vista spot, a scene which was on a previous edition of Lonely Planet Guide. Beautiful spot.

After the coastline, we travelled through farmland and through high mountains. Often the landscape seemed very dry and rocky.

On the way to Pamukkale today we made one of those interesting little stops Isik is renown for. We stopped at a rather large roadside restaurant for a particular delicacy: fresh yoghurt topped with honey and walnuts. It was delicious!

Another pide for lunch!

We made our way up to the upper entrance to the ancient city of Hierapolis, a Greek city from the second century BC which was destroyed by earthquakes, and rebuilt in Roman style sometime in the second century AD. It stands above a series of hot springs which were used as therapeutic baths.

We walked through the Neocropolis - city of the dead, where there are numerous grave sites stretching for about 2 km.

There's also an amphitheatre, a church, roman roads, and numerous other ruins from the ancient city.

After spending some time wandering through the ruins, it was time to take shoes off, and walk down the magnificent structures of the white cliffs of Pamukkale. These terraced formations have been created over time by the build up of minerals in the flowing water. It is quite beautiful.

Hundreds of people make their way to the springs for its healing powers. You are not permitted to bathe in the springs, only walk barefoot. Bathing is permitted in the ancient pool above the cliffs.

Highlight for the night was the Whirling Dervishes. These men whirl to put themselves into a trance-like state. It seems quite strange in some ways. Can't help admiring their dedication to achieve this level, even though I don't fully understand it. Watching it seemed like an intrusion on something quite private.

Once again this trip seems to have highlighted gaps in my knowledge and understanding, and has given me even more things to explore. Food for thought.

 

Posted with Blogsy